Excursions to Jewish Sites in Central and Eastern Europe
No, the synagogue we visit today, is not the former synagogue of the community before 1938. because this one was destroyed. The one we visit today, was the private synagogue of Wertheimer, who was -among others- chief Rabby of Hungary.
It is today part of the Jewish museum in Eisenstadt, which was founded in 1972 as one of the first Jewish museums after WW2 in Austria.
Link:
https://eisenstadteinstundheute.blogspot.com/2021/11/das-judentum-in-eisenstadt.html?m=1
the dome of the synagogue is visible from far away. So, we knew where to head to on this really hot day in June. But we missed it and it took us detours and google maps to find it. A huge building, such huge buildings we saw only in Triest and in some places in Hungary. Impressive building, in moorish style. Inside it gives the feeling of being made out of wood, at least the colours give such an impression..
This place is truly special. A modern Synagogue, built in 1962. nothing you would ever see anywhere. And very difficult todraw, since it is so uncommon.
it would need some renovation and the building next to the synagogue is probably even in worse shape. But it is really worth coming here and visit this place, even when it is not possible to go inside.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Synagogue_of_Livorno?wprov=sfti1#Architecture
within several legal studios, not far away from court, the synagogue of Pisa is located. Visiting inside is not easy, on the Internet we read that you visit Monday and Thursday. But a sign outside the door said only Sunday.
Today’s synagogue was probably built in the 18 century and renovated a few years ago.it just looks like all the surrounding houses, only visible by a few signs.
inside it must be really grand.
the meaning of this artefacts would be interesting. It is located above a door around the corner of the main entrance.
Just for a short visit in Brussels. But my stool and drawing book is with me.
Embedded in houses, the synagogue is blending in. It is quite visible, that traffic is causing damage to the fasade. all grey or black. The street is not inviting- maybe because of construction areas.
Nothing much in the area shows sign of a Jewish live around there. The Jewish museum a few blocks away is closed. A few steps tones remembering former Jewish inhabitants is all there is left.
Still it is good to see: the synagogue is still there and standing.
The synagogue of Pécs is located today quite central: next to the shopping malls of the town. Not so much on tourist routes, but on those of locals.
The synagogue was built in 1869, based on designs by Architekten Frigyes Feszl, Károly Gerster and Lipót Kauser. Today it is in fairly good shape, the ceiling has to secured by nets.
It is still an active community in Pécs.
Source: Wikipedia
When we traveled to Romania in 2017 or Slowakia in 2020, it was still easy: go to Google Maps and search for synagogue in the area you want to visit.
That has changed in 2024. When we planned this trip, it was suddenly impossible. Jewish sites where not shown. Only if you know exactly where to look, you would find it in Google maps.
So we had to look for other ways of research. Wikipedia is a good source.
In Hungary there is a list of synagogues on Wikimedia, which was our best starting point.
And of course books.
Rudolf Klein‘s book on synagogues in Hungary we could not yet get hold on, but it seem to the be the best source.
National geography: Jewish Heritage Travel. A Guide to Eastern Europe
This book is a good overview to relevant Jewish sites in many countries. Good to read!
Ferenc Orbán’s Book “discovering Jewish Culture in the Carpathian Basin” is in English and Hungarian language and covers Hungary and neighbouring areas. It is more detailed and offers background information.
In Google we started a list of synagogues. So in future, if Jewish sites are not searchable, we will find them.
Other resources:
Wikimedia Landkarte für Ungarn. Biggest problem with this map: the city names are in German language. So, today not really usable.
Sometimes useful hints can be found at sites themselves, such as this map of synagogues in Hungary found in Pécs.
The synagogue in Baja is a beauty: a classicist building with wonderful paintings. In excellent state and with perfect use: as the local library.
The synagogue was sold to the city of Baja by the Jewish community on a few conditions. It should have a cultural function, should be kept in a original state and should remain useable as a synagogue. And all these conditions are met. The women we met who take care of this building and place do a marvellous job! It is such a beauty. They should be proud of this jewel.
Follow them on Instagram
That it can be used as a synagogue, can be seen on the weekend of The European Days of Jewish Culture end of August. The whole day is dedicated to a Shabbat for everyone.
(We are not sure who is doing this activity. Some people are supposed to travel from Budapest.)
Barbara already gave extensive information so I will only add some pictures.
This past Shabbes, we visited the Neolog Leo Frankel Shul near the western banks of Budapest, also known as Buda. Not only was it closest to where we were staying, but also some dear friends recommended it to us warmly.
And indeed we were welcomed graciously and took part in the tefillah. Women sit separately though there is no mechitsah, and the liturgy appears more or less identical to the Ashkenazi Orthodox nussach. But there was quite a lot of talking and, as the web site states: “Most of our congregants rather celebrate than keep Shabbat!”
Next morning there was a Bar Mitzvah and it was really nice to see a real, active, lively Jewish Shul for a change, after all those music school, concert venues and museums.
The next day, Barbara and I returned to draw and take a few pictures. Luckily, a lady who lives in the surrounding apartment building opened the gate and I could slip into the courtyard to snap a few photos.
